Progress? So Long Friend

When I first decided to write a blog it was really for two different purposes.
First and foremost, to call attention to the independent restaurants, eateries, joints, shops, greasy spoons, et al I’ve happened upon. To let people know that there are alternatives, both delicious and interesting to the big chains that dominate the highways and cities. That it’s not just a place to eat but a destination. That the meal, the setting, the characters are all part of the experience.
The second was simply as a journal. A reminder to myself of some of the terrific meals I’ve had. There is some wonderful food in some great places prior to starting this that are mere memories now. Fading as the years pass. My online diary would be a way to go back and refresh my memory. Relive experiences that I would eventually forget about.

While this particular post falls into the second category, it’s also to pay tribute and keep the memory alive of one of Toronto’s little hidden gems. New York Subway. Perhaps lost for ever.

Neither a sub joint nor in New York, NYS closed it’s doors for the final time on Saturday, February 26, 2011. A victim of the progress machine the 15 year old snack shop in Queen Street West’s Alexandra Park neighbourhood provided a good, inexpensive food option in a less fortunate part of town. Let’s face it, every city has the high rent district and everything on down to the seedy underbelly. While Alex. Pk. isn’t the bottom of the barrel its best days are both behind and (for some anyway) ahead of it. 

The disheveled storefront with the unkempt interior is just one of a number of stores in a block that’s to be leveled to make room for condos. At the time of this post there seems to be no plan for relocation. So without further adieu I will share with you some of the thoughts and pictures I have as I was working on a review when the news of this story crossed my path.

New York Subway

The sign out front is fading and the façade does nothing to invite one in. Inside the lighting is dim and the walls are painted horribly. The floors are greasy and the tables are  sticky. Much like some of the dives seen on Triple D, it too wears those unfortunate traits with pride. They’re a badge of honour. For some they’re a discouragement. To me they scream credibility.

The food is of course first rate. They do sell subs but this is a burrito place to be sure. It’s not your every day burrito place either. It’s fusion at it’s best. Too often, again in the name of progress, “Fusion” becomes “Confusion.” Keeping it fairly simple allows the different flavours and textures to shine and yet mingle.

I will admit to not being particularly impressed on my first visit. Subsequent visits have been better and better. It has become a (sentimental) favourite and a place I feel every city needs. 

I had planned of future visits and a wider array of samplings to review however that is no longer possible. On this particular (and last) visit I opted for the Lamb Satay and Beef Burritos.

The lamb was excellent. Marinated, skewered and cooked on the flat top it was nice and tender. The lettuce, tomato and onion are fresh tasting but the mayonnaise and “Secret sauce” are what make it. I’m also a big fan of grilling burritos after being stuffed. The crispiness is a perfect contrast to the tenderness.

The beef burrito was even better. You’d think it would have a Tex-Mex kinda flavour but it was more Mediterranean in it’s roots. It kinda reminded me of the beef component in moussaka. Hints of cinnamon and all spice were certainly there. The accompaniments were the same. Again, the secret sauce was what elevated it to a higher level. My only complaint was that where the sauce didn’t insulate the lettuce from the tortilla, the grill gave it that cooked lettuce taste that is terrible. However it was only the first bite where that was a problem and I can overlook it.

Usually I would put a put a map here on where you could find New York Subway and even a link to a website. Sadly, the store will be torn down and there is no website. It looks destined to fade away into Toronto’s collective memory. Hopefully history books will see this chapter in the middle and not at the end. 

Stay tuned as I will update this should I hear any more news. Especially if there is a rebirth.

Take care everybody and help keep the memory of New York Subway alive and well.

Davwud

Authentic Gyros

As far as I’m concerned, anytime there’s revolving meat it’s, as Martha Stewart would say, “A good thing.” It should come as no surprise then that I’m a big fan of the Greek version of rotating meat on a spit, Gyros. 
From the Greek word for “Turn” it’s a sibling of the Turkish “Donair” and Lebanese “Schwarma.” Although it’s often made as a meatloaf of highly seasoned beef and lamb, authentic gyros are actually chicken or pork slices that are stacked on a skewer. The meat is vertically roasted on the spit with the heat and distance from the meat adjustable to speed up or slow down the cooking. 
It is to Greeks what hamburgers are to westerners. Consisting of meat on a pita the consumer can customize the sandwich as he or she sees fit. As a general rule, tzatziki, tomatoes and onions are what make up “Everything” but that can vary.

Oh, and it’s pronounced, Yee-Roes with a slight roll of the “R”.

Just north east of Toronto’s downtown core is Greektown. Home of the massive Hellenic celebration, “Taste of the Danforth,” it’s one of the largest Greek communities outside of Greece.
It’s also home to Messini. A small restaurant serving genuine Greek food in a friendly atmosphere. Owner Marinos Dafnas opened his cafe in 2002 with great anticipation. Having “Test driven” some of his menu at the ‘02 Taste of the Danforth festival the feedback proved invaluable and he was able to give patrons a taste of what would be in store.

Dafnas honed his skills and recipes cooking in his native Greece as well as Germany before immigrating to Canada. He worked fine dining in Vancouver and Montreal before realizing his dream of opening his own place. The result of his years in the business and his commitment to the restaurant and product has made Messini an anchor in the heart of Greektown. 
My lunch visit saw dozens of people either dining in or taking out. It’s no surprise either. The food is fantastic.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present some of the most authentic Greek food the city of Toronto has to offer.

My lunch meal was a combo of a gyro with a side salad and drink.
Although I had the lamb before and it was tasty I opted for the pork as it’s more traditional. I have to admit, I prefer the meatloaf style gyros better. It’s what I always thought was a gyro and and as such, in my head, I think if this as more a schwarma. As far as what it is, it’s excellent. The pork is simply seasoned and spit roasted of course. The result if a very nice tasting, tender and juicy meat. The works in this case was tzatziki, tomato, onion and French fries as is normal in the Greek city and restaurant's namesake, Messini. The house made tzatziki is awesome but the French fries don’t really do it for me. I removed most of them and would omit them in the future.

Another misnomer is that “Greek salad” is a lettuce based salad. In actual fact Horiatiki Salata, the menu item often named “Village salad” is the traditional version. Chopped cucumber, tomato, green pepper and onion, dressed with salt, pepper, oregano, olive oil and garnished with feta and kalamata olives. Messini’s version is simply incredible. The vegetables are very fresh tasting and the feta is rich, salty and pungent. The oil has a nice clean flavour. It’s worth a visit just for he salad.

A side of grilled pita with an olive tapenade was also served. It too was very nice.

You can find Messini at 445 Danforth Ave in Toronto.

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You can also visit them on the web


Well that’s all for now. We’ll see ya next time in the Foodcourt.

Davwud

Sweets of Jerba

 Just a note. This restaurant is now under new management. New name is Taste of Tunisia.

At the northern most point of Africa, jutting out just slightly and about 100 miles across the Mediterranean Sea from Sicily is the Tunisian Republic. About the size of California it’s strategic proximity to Europe has made it, historically, rife for conquest. As we discussed before, conquest is synonymous with great cuisine.
Settled by Berbers, invading (among others) Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Turks, French and Germans, brought with them spices, techniques, styles and utensils which have formed the basis for this cuisine that is a culinary marriage between Europe and Africa. The rich and tomato based sauces of France and Italy fuse with African spices like Cumin and Harrissa. Seafood and lamb are featured prominently.


Toronto immigrant Adul El-masari Abderrazak opened D’jerba-la-Douce in 2005. Abdul puts his years of experience in countries like France, Italy and of course, Tunisia to serve up family recipes from his boy hood days on the island of Jerba. With a limited menu Abdul is able to cook everything to order. Right from scratch with organic veggies and halal meat. “An intoxicating menu that fuses the cuisines of North Africa, Southern Italy and France in Toronto’s only Tunisian restaurant.” Completing the experience you can even enjoy the hookah on the back patio.


“So what does Tunisian food look like” you may ask? 
I should point out that I was with a group so all dishes were served family style. I should also point out that while not very  spicy, there certainly was some heat. My mouth was tingling but not burning. 

So without further adieu.
Roughly speaking, from least to most favourite:

Couscous is the national dish of Tunisia. I have to admit, I don’t get couscous. I don’t like it. I don’t dislike it. I don’t get it. That said, I rather enjoyed the presentation here. We got a large platter with lamb chops and grilled chicken thighs. Both the chicken and lamb were good but nothing special and of course, the couscous is couscous.


Another platter with stewed lamb and green beans was brought out to have with the left over couscous. While I thought the sauce was good, the lamb was a bit lost. It was fall off the bone tender though.


Brique is a pastry stuffed with potato, egg and tuna. It’s somewhat similar to a samosa and was pretty good. It would make a nice snack to eat while driving.


A delicious Calamari Djerbieno is served in a tomato sauce flavoured with chilies and garlic. When calamari is over cooked (which is very easy to do) they get rubbery. These were over cooked but the tire like texture never bothers me anyway. This was a tasty dish.


The Grilled Shrimp la Marseillaise are head on shrimp, grilled and smothered in a garlic, tomato sauce. The sauce had a little more spice and the shrimp were earthy and pretty large. This was a great dish. Full of flavour and looked really nice to boot.


The Salad Grill Mushwa was a surprising highlight. A base of hummus like puree made a nice back drop for the eggs, capers and olives.


Last and certainly not least is the Merguese Sausage. Lamb sausages smothered in tomato sauce with french fried potatoes and poached egg. This was absolutely fabulous. I gobbled up as much as I could. Then had more. While I was very happy with the other dishes, this was easily my favourite.


There was also plenty of pita bread brought to the table for sopping up the sauce as the website says, “So it won’t go to waste.” Being a sauce and bread lover, I was all over that. The bread was pretty simple and really was just there for one purpose.


We were served a wonderful mint tea with dinner too. I got it just to try, figuring I wouldn’t care for it and as it turns out, it was very refreshing and a great palate cleanser between dishes.


You can find Djerba-la-Douce at 1475 Danforth Rd in Toronto, Ontario.


View Larger Map
You can also find them on the web.


Well that’s it for today. Catch ya later.
Davwud