Alabama meets Texas
You sometimes have to wonder what possesses people to do the things they do. I mean, what would posses a person to open a Texas BBQ joint in Madison Alabama. Right in the heart of North Alabama BBQ country. Especially given that people from one BBQ region DO NOT, as a rule, like BBQ from another region. But....there it is, Chuck Wagon BBQ not 10 minutes from the legend, Big Bob Gibson's. It's a recipe, no pun intended, for disaster.
But what if I told you that at lunch time, you can't get near this place. That lineups start before the doors open. That ya, it's that good.
Owner Mike Holley, a genuine transplanted Texan is churning out what could very well be the best Texas Q East of the Pecos. Using recipes handed down from his Grandfather, George Washington Gray he's found enough room in the BBQ saturated landscape of Madison and Limestone Counties. While he toiled in the oil fields of Texas for many years, Mike had cooking in his blood. His Great Grandfather was a chuck wagon cook on the Goodnight-Loving Trail.
Located just off I-565 Chuckwagon BBQ is a sight to behold. An honest to goodness joint. Decked out in weathered barn board with a bright red roof and big BBQ spelled out it's a stand out. Smoke stacks and catering pits pop up like mushrooms in a damp forest.
Inside it mirrors the outside with more barn board and is decorated with many things Texas. You enter around back and go through the outdoor dining area. Food is served to you cafeteria style from a large serving station inside and the cramped main dining room seems to accommodate many more than you'd think.
So let's get a look at what's got Alabamians betraying their roots shall we??
The Beans were much better but seemed to be lacking something. It seemed to be an acid of some sort. I added a bit of BBQ sauce and that seemed to brighten things up a bit. So I added more. I found that there was a level that was perfect and one that was too much. So easy does it.
I quite liked the Tater Salad. Nothing special about it, it’s just good old solid tuber goodness. Nothing wrong with that.
A 2 Meat combo of Brisket and Sausage is a nice match. Smoked pork sausage and Texas style brisket are as ubiquitous in Texas as cows it seems. While both were terrific, they both lacked that great smoked flavour that I love. Otherwise, the sausage was incredibly tasty and perfectly cooked. When smoking sausage the casing can become rather rubbery and downright unappetizing. This wasn't the case here. The brisket also hit all the appropriate buttons but the smokey one as I mentioned. The meat was fork tender, juicy and great tasting. Gven that these are the two house specialties, they’d better be good.
They do actually do pork products as well. This horrible photo is of ribs. Given that we showed up 5 minutes before close and I got the last order of ribs they were needless to say, not very photogenic. Not to worry, the taste was pretty much everything you’d want. As you can tell by the pink in the meat, the smoke flavour was spot on.
For dessert there are some options but Mrs. Sippi was all over the Fried Pies. The apple was terrific but the peach was just slightly better.
So there you have it folks, terrific Texas BBQ in the Heart of Dixie.
You can find Chuck Wagon BBQ at 8982 Madison Blvd. in Madison, Al.
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You can also find them on facebook.
Well that's all for now folks, see ya next time in the food court.
Famous White Chili
Ed Hyter graduated from Huntsville High School almost 40 years ago. To say he’s stayed fairly close to home is an understatement. Ed got a job at Duffy’s Deli in Huntsville, Al a week later and has, for the most part, been there ever since. Sure, he did leave for a couple of weeks but found the grass on the other side of the fence was not greener. So he came back. Ed didn’t turn his back on his alma matter either, acting as HHS’s Panther football squad as Equipment Manager. His work at Duffy’s has earned him the title Chef Edward and The Soup King. His work with the Panthers has earned him the title, Mr. Huntsville High. In the Five Points area of Huntsville, he seems to be Mr. Everything.
Duffy’s, founded by former University of Alabama Crimson Tide Quarterback John “Duffy” Boles, sits in a 100 year old house. Sadly, the house is in probate court right now and Linda Ledbetter who owns and operates the Deli with her husband Terry, has no interest in relocating. The plan is to continue the tradition until they’re uprooted and then retire. They’d like to sell the business but time will tell. It’s an unfortunate part of life when an institution is taken from locals however life is not always sunshine, lollypops and rainbows.
From the outside it looks like, well, an old house. Of course, most houses don’t have a sign outside and the lawn has been replaced with a parking lot. As with any century home, it needs some TLC but given the uncertain future, no one wants to invest the money. So there it sits, sadly needing some love, awaiting it's fate.
Inside Duffy’s has an order counter as you walk in. You then procede to the dining room and wait for your goodies. There really isn’t one big dining room but a handful of smaller ones. There’s plenty of newspaper and magazine articles decorating the walls. Of course, there’s all kinds of Crimson Tide paraphernalia. Perhaps the most important feature though, Eddie is always near by. When not cooking in the kitchen he’s in the dining room mingling with customers. Talking football mostly.
Speaking of Eddie and his kitchen, let’s get a look at what he’s got to offer.
I’ll start with the star of the show. The White Chili. Very simple in nature and not heavily seasoned it’s truly a work of art. The beans and chicken really shine through. It has a really nice, well rounded flavour. I found the gravy to be fine as far as thickness although reviews I’ve seen see people consider it thin. What really ties this whole dish together is the generous amount of cheese in it. It’s a spectacular dish.
The Catfish is quite good. A nice, thin, crispy cornmeal batter encases a melt in your mouth filet of fish. As far as the fish goes, it has that signature earthiness to it. While they use frozen fries, these are among my favourites. They’re coated and makes for a really crisply exterior and conceals a fluffy, potatoey interior. As I’ve said before, good frozen fries beat bad fresh cut every day of the week.
A daily special sandwich is Italian Meatball. Served on a hoagie bun it’s packed with gum ball sized meatballs in Maranara and topped with Mozzerella cheese. There’s no alchemy going on here, it’s just an around tasty sandwich.
The Baron sandwich is also fantastic. Salami and Ham on Rye (they were out so a whole wheat bun was subbed) with Swiss. The meats really complemented each other rather than competed. What really “Made” this sandwich though is the mustard. A nice deli mustard. Just enough to add some character but not so much as to take over the whole thing. Fab-U-Lous.
The Bayou Hoagie is a tasty sandwich as well. Pieces of Cajun Sausage on a hoagie roll with mayonniase and spicy mustard. The simplicity is really what makes it. The condiments are only there to compliment the sausage and the bun to hold it.
Eddie takes great pride in his burgers and it shows. Some hail it as Huntsville’s best. As of yet, I‘ve found no better. A great beef taste in this hand formed and flat top (ahhhh) griddled burger. Topped with cheese on a nice fluffy bun. It’s simply great.
The Deep Fried Cheesecake is fantastic. They get a simple cheesecake from a local bakery and deep fry wedges. They top it with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Eddie tells us that he loves it with raspberries on top.
So there you have it. Great sandwiches and legendary white chili in a Huntsville institution that, hopefully, will endure.
You can find Duffy’s at 2324 Whitesburg Dr S, Huntsville, Al.
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You can also find them on facebook.
Well that’s all for now folks, see you next time in the food court.
In June of 2011, Judit Szamosszegi introduced the flavours of the old country at Paprika Euro Deli. Just off Main Street in Newmarket. The smallish store featured, among other things, meats, dry goods and hot table. So popular was said hot table that a year later when the adjoining spot on main street came available, she jumped at it. She and her husband George opened The Goulash House serving York Region some of the finest Hungarian food in Canada.
I’m told it doesn’t get as cold in Hungary as it does ‘round these parts in the winter. While that’s probably a good thing for them when the mercury does dip, Hungarian cuisine seems to be just about the best comfort, stick to your ribs, stay warm kinda food that is perfect on a cold snowy night.
Sometimes called Magyar Cuisine after the primary ethnic group of Hungary. Rife with meats and fresh vegetables, owing to Hungary's farming heritage. The cuisine in general seems to have a nice blend of what one would consider eastern and western European dishes. Things like schnitzels and perogies would be fine examples of those.
Location, location, location is what they say and this place is all over it. It sits in a corner unit of a heritage building with beautiful, large front windows. If you don’t mind being in a bit of a fish bowl, those tables there are great. Inside wood and exposed brick dominate. The whole place just has a nice warm feel that the food supports nicely. It’s just a great place.
So let’s get a look at this food of which I speak.
The Hungarian Sampler platter is an assortment of cheese and meats from the attached deli. Everything on the plate was at least very good but the two stand outs were the Smoked Mozzarella (top right) and the Smoked Salami (bottom right). The Liptauer (Cheese Spread) (bottom left) was also quite enjoyable. It came with some very nice bread.
Chicken Paprikash is as synonymous with Hungarian food as Goulash. This example (the only one I've ever had) was simply marvelous. Not very spicy and very smooth. The chicken was nice and tender and the Nokedli (Hungarian Spätzle) was a perfect vehicle for the extra sauce. I added some of the offered hot sauce (very similar to sambal) and it gave it just that much more punch.
The national dish of Hungary is Beef Goulash and as such, you’d best make it well if you have a Hungarian restaurant. Especially if that’s the name on the door. Well, this is every bit the hearty, delicious dish I know. A rich, thick, yet delicate flavoured gravy with chunks of tender beef shank swimming in it is poured over Nokedli and served in a kettle. The hint of caraway and paprika gently flavour the dish. It’s somewhere between soup and stew. Quite frankly, it’s simply incredible and would be the best thing on the menu if not for….
…Potato Paprikash. This dish has so much going on and is just so incredibly delicious. Slices of potato are simmered in a paprika broth that’s flavoured with Csabi sausage and garnished with a piece of Debreceni sausage. Served with the Nokedli it’s just so tasty. As much as I wanted to say the goulash was the best, this dish is just that much better.
The Dobosh cake is really good. a 7 layer torte topped with caramel (in this case a caramel topped cookie like thing). It had good over all taste and wasn't sickeningly sweet. We quite enjoyed it.
Not nearly as much as the Somlói Galuska. A mixture of Chocolate, Vanilla and Walnut sponge cakes with custard, topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce, topped with a cherry. It's heavenly.
So there you have it folks, some fantastic Hungarian food a little north of Toronto
You can find The Goulash House at 200 Main St. S, Newmarket, On.
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You can also find them on facebook.
Well that’s all for now folks, see ya next time in the food court.
In 1951 Fooad Haba did an Aliyah. That is to say, his father Sason packed up the family and moved them from their native Iraq to the holy land, Israel. A baker by trade, Sason brought his taboon and established the first Iraqi bakery near Mahane Yehudah Market (referred to as The Shuk) in Jerusalem. Sason also brought with him generations of experience as a baker. Which he would pass on to Fooad. The bakery specialized in the popular Iraqi bread, Laffa.

Eventually Fooad's son, Sasi would settle in Canada. First in Montreal and eventually, Toronto. Having turned his back on his baking heritage Sasi worked many different jobs. In the fall of 2008, while working for a pool company, the jobs ran out. At the urging of his father, he decided to get into the bread business. He brought the taboon with him and his father would teach him the ropes. With his business partner, Yoram Gaby (a baker as well) they opened Dr. Laffa. Serving some of the most authentic Israeli food in the GTA. In fact some say the best anywhere outside Israel.
Dr. Laffa sits in an industrial area just inside Toronto’s northern boundry.
There’s a fairly small dining room and plenty of room for those there to get take away. The star of the show though is the taboon that's in the open kitchen. So let's get a look at what's cooking.
Laffa, for those who don't know about his unique and rare bread, is of Iraqi heritage and is cooked on a taboon. It's a fair bit larger than a regular pita, is quite light and fluffy on the A side and crisp and golden brown on the B side. It doesn't tear easily and is, if flattened, rather thin. It puffs or blisters, up quite a bit when baked and doesn't have much flavour. It really doesn't need much though, it's more or less a canvas on which other things shine. Seeing as how bread is my favourite food, I still love it.
Your greeted at the table with a selection of pickles. Cucumbers, carrots and cabbage. The slaw is fine as are the carrots. The pickles are quite nice though. They’re half sour and have some nice crunch.
Shakshuka is a dish that's North African in origin and very common for breakfast in the Middle East. It's name is derived from a common last name in Tunisia, Chakchouk. That said, Turkey and Yemen also lay claim. Given that it reminded me of the Merguese sausage dish I had at a Tunisian restaurant, I'll go with the former.
Basically, it's eggs poached in a mildly seasoned (with harrisa) tomato broth that's loaded with chilies (mild ones), onions and roasted garlic. Quite frankly, there's a ton going on in this dish.
The Shakshuka Special, which is what I had is the basic dish with the addition of Merges sausage. This Middle Eastern lamb sausage is highly seasoned and incredibly tasty. Pretty much every bite with this dish is different. A deep, rich tomato flavour permeates, sometimes a bit garlicky, other times rich from the egg yolk. A hint of spice once in a while or sweet from a different chili. Just an incredible dish that's comfort food at it's best. Mostly served in the winter months in Israel.
The Shawarma meat was something I've never seen. Instead of the usual chicken, Dr. Laffa was using turkey. The turkey was embedded with lamb fat as it's basting agent. The meat wasn't heavily seasoned but more left to stand on it's own merits. The sandwich was stuffed into a laffa with a nice mixture of sauces and vegetation. I think my bread of choice for shawarma is still pita but this was a nice change. All in all, this was a great sandwich. And big too. No, not big, HUGE!!
In the run up to, and during Chanukah, Jews will often eat things deep fried.
Commemorating the miracle of the temple oil. Sufganiyah (SOOF-gone-ee-AH) are traditional jelly filled donuts that fit this bill nicely. Dough balls are fried, filled with jelly and topped with powdered sugar. These specimens are good but I think could be better. For me, there wasn’t enough jelly in them. Outside of that, I really liked them. I found them a bit more savoury than most donuts and to a degree, a bit more like bread than donut. These are totally not like the light, airy Krispy Kreme Original Glaze donuts. They’re denser and savoury balanced out the powdered sugar nicely. I rather enjoyed the chewiness.
Baklava is a traditional dessert all over the Middle East. Chopped pistachios are sandwiched between layers of phyllo or, as in the case here, dressed up a bit more nicely. There’s plenty of sugar, usually in the form of honey to sweeten these up. While I really like baklava, I don’t love it. These specimens here are among the best I’ve had though.
Well there you have it folks, a little taste of Israel right here in TO.
You can find Dr. Laffa at 401 Magnetic Dr in Toronto.
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You can also find them on the web, facebook and Twitter.
Well that’s all for now folks, see ya next time in the food court.
Davwud
For about a decade the Dead End Society met at the end of Summit Circle. A cul-de-sac in Knoxville, Tennessee. Three families would get together and hone their BBQ skills. Neighbours all, they started by hosting a pig roast for the other local residents. Over the years it would grow from dozens to hundreds and by early in the century, they'd take the knowledge gleaned, on the road. Hitting BBQ competitions from all corners of the state and beyond. Racking up a pretty impressive resume along the way.
Architect, George Ewart, like so many in the BBQ game, has smoke and pig fat in his veins. By the age of 14 he was learing at his daddy's side. Coaxing an almost inedible piece of meat into a mouth watering delicacy. Those skills, handed down by his father were handed down by his grandmother.
At the ripe old age of 48, George figured it was time to let everyone in neighbourhood cook outs. He opened Dead End BBQ in Knoxville, near UT and has taken over the BBQ scene locally. Having won Best BBQ in Knoxville from Metro Pulse all three years he's been in business. Along with his many other accolades from his many years on the competition trail.
Being an architect, George designed his snazzy new digs. Decked out in glass, stainless steel and neon it's a beautiful looking place. Unfortunately, both Mrs. Sippi and I agree, it does not scream BBQ. We both love the old shacks that have been around for decades. Some day, DEBBQ will be decades old and oozing that charm but for now, it's a shiny new building with little character.
Inside it's very nice as well. A large, open dining room with a view of the smokers. There's a good sized patio and, of course, the trophy case. Displaying a collection of awards collected over the many years of competing.
While everything we ate was at least good only a couple things stood out. One thing that really hurt here is, much like the place itself, there was no discernible smoke flavour. So while we did like everything, we didn't love it.
A caddy with S&P and 3 different sauces awaits you at your table. Mild, regular and spicy. The mild was just too innocuous. The regular was right up my alley. Nice and sticky sweet with some tang from vinegar and cayenne. Good for the pork. The hot was nothing mind blowing but had enough kick to get your attention. It worked particularly well with the sausage. It, I suspect, would be fantastic on the smoked wings.
The Jalapeno Cornbread was very good. Nice corn taste and complimented well with the jalapenos. The Southern Cornbread was pretty average. Nothing much wrong with it outside of sugar according to Mrs. Sippi. I personally don't mind the sweetness. As I've stated before our palates don't line up on cornbread.
The Mayor's Beans were good tasting and pretty rich. We were told they had pineapple in them which didn't come across at all. They weren't overly sweet which was fine. I prefer a little less sweet than too much. At least when it comes to beans. All in all, like so much else, good.
The Mac and Pimento Cheese posed a bit of a problem for me. Nicely creamy with a good cheese flavour so all in all a bit above average. However they lose a point for not tasting like Pimento Cheese. Save for a few bits of pimento and the menu you wouldn't have known they were in there. If you advertise it, it should taste like it. Shame too, I was really looking forward to it.
I liked the ribs a little better than Mrs. Sippi. She couldn't get past sauce. Not that it was bad but she prefers dry ribs (Memphis style) and these are more my style. Slathered with sauce cooked in. The meat was fine and they were very tender but the lack of smoke really stood out here. They seemed to be missing something and that was it.
The big hit for us was the Smoked Sausage. Juicy, porky with a hint of garlic. Made and smoked in house it was simply fantastic. We both feel the sausage alone is worth a repeat visit. As I pointed out above, the Hot (BBQ) Sauce worked really well. I'd really be interested in trying it on a bun with some slaw and sauce. It think it'd be awesome.
We also had some pulled pork but for some reason I didn’t get a picture. Anyway, it too was good.
So there you have it folks, some pretty good Q with a some outstanding items thrown in.
You can find Dead End BBQ at 3621 Sutherland Ave, Knoxville, Tn.
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You can also find them on the web, facebook and Twitter
Well that's all for now folks, we'll see ya next time in the food court.
Davwud